When to Use JPEG and When to Use RAW
Unsure about the best format for your photos? Read on to learn the ins and outs of RAWs and JPEGs
Your camera can save photos in a few different ways. Knowing the pros, cons and use cases for each file type is important if you want to get the best results from your photography.
RAW vs JPEG
Before we can discuss the best uses for each file type, let’s understand what makes them different.
The main file formats for photos on an X Series or GFX System camera are RAW and JPEG. A RAW file contains all the pure data from your camera’s sensor, while a JPEG is a compressed version of that data.
RAW files require significantly more storage space than JPEGs. This is the main trade-off between the two: you can retain more information per image, but files will be much larger.
It sounds simple enough, but it’s worth delving into the details to understand what all that additional information is – and what you might need it for.
What is bit depth?
One of the key differences between a RAW and JPEG file is bit depth. Bit depth describes the precision with which analogue information is converted to digital data.
An image with a bit depth of 1 has 21 (= 2) possible values per pixel – meaning each pixel is either black or white.
An image with a bit depth of 8 – an 8-bit image – has 28 (= 256) possible values per pixel. That means there are 256 shades of grey ranging from black to white that each pixel can be.
An 8-bit RGB image has 28 possible values for each colour channel. With 256 values for red, green and blue, there are more than 16 million possible colour values per pixel. This is the bit depth of a standard JPEG file.
RAW files from X Series and GFX System cameras have a bit depth of 14, meaning there are 214 (= 16,384) values per colour channel. This provides a much higher-fidelity image, with more than four trillion possible colour values.
GFX System cameras also have the option to create 16-bit RAW files, offering 216 (= 65,536) values per colour channel and more than 281 trillion possible colour values. You can learn more about 16-bit RAWs here.
Image compression
We mentioned earlier that a RAW image contains all the pure data from the camera, while a JPEG is a compressed format. What does that mean?
Data compression is the act of simplifying information so that it requires less storage. There are two types of compression – lossless and lossy.
Lossless compression can be completely reversed, allowing you to turn a compressed image back into an uncompressed image with zero loss of data. Lossy compression reduces storage space even more, but results in some artefacts and loss of information.
The JPEG file format is a method of lossy image compression. It offers a significant reduction in required memory, but some data will be permanently lost upon conversion.
Fujifilm cameras offer three levels of JPEG compression – SUPER FINE (GFX System only), FINE and NORMAL. SUPER FINE and FINE use lower compression ratios for higher-quality images, while NORMAL has a higher compression ratio that maximises the number of images that can be stored.
JPEG vs HEIF
Many Fujifilm cameras allow you to choose between JPEG and HEIF files. You can pick from the two by pressing MENU/OK and navigating to IMAGE QUALITY SETTING > SELECT JPEG/HEIF.
Just like a JPEG, a HEIF file is a compressed image format. It is gaining popularity due to its improved compression efficiency, delivering improved colour depth (10-bit quality) in files up to 30% smaller than equivalent JPEGs.
The downside to the HEIF format is its compatibility – it is not as widely supported as the JPEG, so you should check the functionality of the software in your workflow as well as the requirements of your clients before using it. It is simple to convert HEIFs to JPEGs though, so don’t fret if you’ve been using this format unknowingly.
What should you use RAWs for?
Given the choice between an 8-bit compressed JPEG and a 14-bit uncompressed RAW file, it sounds like the RAW is the far better option – so why even bother with JPEGs?
Well aside from storage space – a RAW file from a 40.2-megapixel X Series camera is around 90MB, compared to roughly 20MB for a FINE JPEG – the problem with RAW files is that you can’t actually use them for very much.
For starters, only certain pieces of software are able to decode a RAW file and display it as a viewable image. This means you’ll need to convert it to something more versatile, like a JPEG, before uploading to the web or sending to a printer.
On top of this, most screens and printers can only reproduce images with up to 8 bits of colour depth, which means all that extra information in your RAW file can’t be viewed by many. What’s the point of it then?
Post-processing
Working with a RAW file gives you much more freedom when editing your photos. The higher bit depth means there is significantly more dynamic range and colour information within the file, allowing you to make sweeping adjustments to the exposure and tonality of the image without creating any unsightly banding effects.
If editing images is an important part of your workflow, it is strongly recommended to set your camera to record RAW files.
Precaution
If you’ve spent hours waiting to photograph a single decisive moment – from wildlife to weddings, it’s a common theme in photography – you don’t want to find out after the fact that you’ve inadvertently ruined the photo with a poor exposure.
If you shoot RAW, the additional dynamic range allows you to recover significantly more details from the shadows or highlights, giving you additional peace of mind while you’re out creating.
Posterity
If you want to future-proof your work, it makes sense to create and save the highest-quality files possible. Imaging standards constantly change, so having RAW files to create new edits from may end up being incredibly helpful.
While keeping an organised archive of all your digital files is no mean feat, if you think of your RAWs as essentially digital negatives, there’s every chance you’ll thank yourself one day for holding onto them.
What should you use JPEGs for?
What’s great about JPEGs created on X Series or GFX System cameras is that they feature Fujifilm’s proprietary colour science and image processing. Your camera’s processor can apply Film Simulations and other image quality effects to RAW images that can’t be accessed in third-party editing software.
Therefore, if you want to use Film Simulation recipes, you need to set up your camera to create JPEG or HEIF files in-camera. Alternatively, you can use the in-camera RAW conversion tool (press MENU/OK > RAW CONVERSION on the playback screen) or download FUJIFILM X RAW STUDIO to edit your RAW files using the in-camera processor.
If you need to convert your RAW file to a JPEG before you can do anything with it, perhaps there’s something to be said for getting your JPEG file right first time in-camera, and saving yourself an entire post-processing workflow. Aside from the fun of creating finished-looking photos straight out of camera, JPEGs are smaller and easier to share.
SOOC photography
Sometimes, editing all your photos can feel like a chore. If you want to spend more time using your camera and less time in the editing suite, getting to grips with straight-out-of-camera (SOOC) photography can be an enjoyable remedy.
By exploring the world of Film Simulations and recipes, you can make full use of your camera’s image processing capabilities and achieve finished-looking photos at the instant you press the shutter.
Sharing
If you want to turn around a finished-looking photo in a hurry, shooting JPEGs is a great option. Maybe your client wants to see a quick proof of your work at the end of the session. Perhaps you’re taking photos of friends and want to send them a copy on the spot.
If you have a JPEG of the image, it’s ready to share and be seen by the world. Using FUJIFILM XApp, you can quickly offload your files to your phone. From there, you can send it to a collaborator or share to social media with no extra steps.
Storage
As discussed, JPEG files are much smaller in size than RAWs, meaning you can fit a lot more of them onto your SD card. If you’re going on a long trip and only have limited storage, it’s worth considering switching to JPEG to give yourself room for more photos.
That smaller file size has benefits in other areas as well. For continuous shooting, your camera can create longer bursts of smaller files – for example, shooting at 20fps using the FUJIFILM X-T30 III’s electronic shutter, you can get 23 uncompressed RAW files, compared to 127 JPEGs. That’s the difference between a one- and six-second burst – so well worth thinking about if you’re working at high speeds.
The best of both
Still not sure whether to shoot in RAW or JPEG? Good news – you don’t have to choose. Your Fujifilm camera can save a RAW and JPEG file simultaneously, letting you enjoy the benefits of both formats.
If you want to send off a JPEG using your favourite Film Simulation straight after taking a photo, but retain a RAW version of the file for detailed editing later, you can. Just go to your camera’s image quality settings and select SUPER FINE+RAW (GFX System only), FINE+RAW or NORMAL+RAW.
This gives you the ultimate in versatility, saving smaller, shareable files straight out of camera alongside the pure sensor data. The only downside here is storage – you’ll need space on your card for two versions of every photo you take. Worth it? That depends entirely on your needs.
Learn more with FUJIFILM UK
Whether you want to learn how to create better-looking SOOC photos or make the most of the extra information in your RAW files, you’re already in the right place.
Check out the FUJIFILM Learning Centre home page to explore articles covering a range of imaging genres and levels of experience.
Discover more about FUJIFILM X Series and GFX System, and shop the range today.
